The clothing of the 1960s and 1970s made their indelible mark on the way American dresses, from big-picture changes (the general move toward more casual dress, for example) to the smallest details (monokinis, which are still a thing).
But, as these covers show, the fashions of the ’60s and ’70s were hardly monolithic. From mod maxi dresses and matching trouser suits to minidresses and 1950s nostalgia, the look of LIFE was ever-changing.
Memorial Day weekend is a chance to get out of town, have an adventure, see friends and family—with the inevitable result that many, many people will get stuck in traffic at some point over the next couple of days.
But, if it’s any consolation, that’s nothing new. In 1949, LIFE magazine captured the huge numbers of cars that swarmed American roads during the holiday. In New York City and Boston, photographers Cornell Capa, Yale Joel and Tony Linck found that it was bumper-to-bumper. These photographs were never published in the pages of LIFE, but they are as relevant now as they ever were. The makes and models of the cars may have changed but the aggravating bother of holiday weekend traffic remains ever the same.
A traffic jam in New York City on Memorial Day Weekend, 1949.
Cornell Capa The LIFE Picture Collecion/Shutterstock
Cars approached the George Washington Bridge in the evening during Memorial Day traffic, 1949.
Cornell Capa The LIFE Picture Collecion/Shutterstock
Cars approached the George Washington Bridge in the evening during Memorial Day weekend, 1949.
Cornell Capa The LIFE Picture Collecion/Shutterstock
Cars exited the George Washington Bridge in the afternoon during Memorial Day traffic, 1949.
Cornell Capa The LIFE Picture Collecion/Shutterstock
Cars exited the George Washington Bridge in the afternoon during Memorial Day, 1949.
Cornell Capa The LIFE Picture Collecion/Shutterstock
Cars drove in bumper-to-bumper traffic on Memorial Day in Boston, 1949.
Yale Joel The LIFE Picture Collecion/Shutterstock
Cars drove slowly through the Sumner tunnel during Memorial Day traffic, Boston, 1949.
Yale Joel The LIFE Picture Collecion/Shutterstock
Cars filled the parking lots on Memorial Day. Boston, 1949.
Tony Linck The LIFE Picture Collecion/Shutterstock
Lyndon B. Johnson’s first year as president was one for the history books: it began with President Kennedy’s assassination on Nov. 22, 1963, and ended almost exactly a year later with Johnson’s reelection to the White House, in a major victory over Republican candidate Barry Goldwater.
LIFE Magazine was tracking the presidential race as it was happening; that reelection was the subject of a Nov. 13, 1964 cover story about the “Mighty Landslide.” And, though the published issue would only include a couple of shots of the President and his family at their Texas ranch, LIFE’s photographer John Dominis captured the whole run-up to Johnson’s learning that he had won handily and how he celebrated.
Despite the eventual results and Johnson’s well-founded confidence, it was clear that the President wouldn’t consider the victory his until the results were official. And even then, one of American history’s biggest landslides wasn’t entirely satisfying.
“He wants,” a friend told LIFE before the results came in, “to make it unanimous.”
Lyndon B. Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B.Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B. Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B.Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B. Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B. Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B. Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Crowd on election night
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B. Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B. Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B. Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B.Johnson 1964
John Dominis / The LIFE Picture Collection
Lyndon B.Johnson 1964
President Lyndon Johnson and VP Hubert Humphrey the morning after winning election, 1964 (John Dominis The LIFE Picture Collection)
Gordon Parks, the renowned LIFE magazine photographer, and Ralph Ellison, the acclaimed novelist, shared a vision of Harlem and that vision was grim. During the decade after the end of World War II, they collaborated twice on projects intended to reveal underlying truths about the New York City neighborhood that was sometimes called the capital city of black America. Their first effort, in 1947, was never published. In the second, “A Man Becomes Invisible,” which appeared in LIFE on Aug. 25, 1952, Parks interpreted Ellison’s recently published novel, Invisible Man, through images that were by turns surreal and nightmarish.
Parks and Ellison were friends as well as collaborators, and both were strangers to Harlem. Their roots, in Kansas and Oklahoma respectively, were culturally and geographically far removed from what Parks once called Harlem’s “shadowy ghetto.” While other African American artists celebrated Harlemites’ cultural achievements, Parks and Ellison both mourned the psychological damage that racism had inflicted on them. There was no room in their Harlem for a Duke Ellington or a Langston Hughes, or even for the ordinary pleasures of love and laughter. Instead Harlem was, in Ellison’s words, “the scene and symbol of the Negro’s perpetual alienation in the land of his birth.”
It is likely that the idea for the visual homage to Invisible Man came from Parks. The book was, after all, the work of a close friend and had been partly written while Ellison was housesitting for the Parks family in 1950. Invisible Man had been published to nearly universal critical acclaim and was one of the most talked about books of the year.
“A Man Becomes Invisible” was not LIFE’s first visualization of a book by an African American writer. For “Black Boy: A Negro Writes a Bitter Autobiography,” published in 1945, photographer George Karger recreated scenes from Richard Wright’s highly praised memoir. The images were dramatic but straightforward, illustrating the book rather than interpreting it. Parks, on the other hand, produced a self-consciously subjective interpretation.
Both of Parks’ collaborations with Ellison were the subject of Invisible Man: Gordon Parks and Ralph Ellison in Harlem, an exhibition at the Art Institute of Chicago. Writing in the exhibition’s catalog, curator Michal Raz-Russo noted that Parks made dozens of photographs for “A Man Becomes Invisible.” Many were gritty Harlem street scenes that Parks shot in a documentary mode. In others, he staged scenes in order to capture the surreal elements of Ellison’s novel. Raz-Russo argues that the photographic record suggests that Parks envisioned a more comprehensive interpretation than was possible in the three pages that his editors gave him. (Parks’ memoirs are silent on the matter.)
In print, LIFE published four of Parks’ photographs, each more surreal than documentary. The magazine’s most alert readers would have noticed that the first photograph in “A Man Becomes Invisible” did not depict a scene that appeared in Invisible Man. Instead it extended Ellison’s narrative, as Matthew S. Witkovsky, head of the photo department at the AIC, notes in his catalog essay. Occupying most of the page, it showed the novel’s unnamed narrator emerging through a manhole on a Harlem street. Below him was the sanctuary that had been his escape from the absurd and brutal forces of racism that had nearly destroyed him. Ellison had ended his story with his narrator preparing to reenter the world, but not having done so. Parks visualized the narrator’s reentry, capturing the wariness that he would have felt.
In the final photograph, Parks depicted the novel’s signature scene: the narrator in his underground lair, where he fought off his sense of invisibility in the glow of 1,369 lightbulbs, drinking sloe gin and listening to Louis Armstrong records. Above him burned the lights of New York’s nighttime skyline. A composite of two negatives, the image was a metaphor for the psychological damage that racism had inflicted on the narrator and, by extension, on all black Americans.
Two nightmarish photographs were included in the photo-essay. In the first, Parks created a hallucinatory image out of what had been a straightforward documentary photograph of a Harlem shop window filled with religious symbols and a skull. Farther down the page, he evoked a moment in which the leader of a stand-in for the Communist Party that Ellison called “the Brotherhood” attempted to intimidate the narrator, who had come to believe that the group was exploiting him, by removing his glass eye and tossing it into a glass of water.
The uncredited text that accompanied Parks’ photographs flattened the novel’s plot considerably, emphasizing its anti-Communist elements and downplaying its critique of American racism. LIFE wrote that Parks captured “the loneliness, the horror and the disillusionment of a man who has lost faith in himself and his world.” As Raz-Russo wrote in her catalog essay, “A Man Becomes Invisible” “remains an important tribute to and interpretation of Ellison’s seminal novel.”
Contact Sheet, “A Man Becomes Invisible,” Life story no. 36997, 1952.
The thoroughbreds that take to the track at any race are supposed to be the stars of the show. And, sure, technically, they are. But they always have some competition for spectators’ attentions: the elaborate hats.
From silly to frilly, the race-day hat has become a mainstay (and, to some, a good-luck charm). But, while today’s hats can get a bit outrageous, the tradition of hats at the races is longstanding. In 1945, LIFE photographer Nina Leen chronicled some of that year’s best hats—designer hats introduced to the public by models at a race. The images in this accompanying gallery never ran in LIFE.
A few clues can be found in the photos about the races: a woman holds a program on which a few horses’ names appear: SAFETY EDGE, WAVERLY, BLUE SWEEP and some of the features of the track, like the letters U and L on a balcony, are clear. Scroll through the gallery below to see the most high fashion hats from Gulfstream Park in Hallandale Beach, Florida.
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Fashion for the Races 1945
Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock
Audrey Hepburn had only had one major film role in 1953’s Roman Holiday when photographer Mark Shaw spent a day with the star. She was a 24-year-old waif (born on May 4, in 1929) who had made a good impression in Hollywood and on the stage but had yet to solidify her fame. Some, like director Billy Wilder, worried that she would somehow slip through the cracks, too hard to classify, neither sex goddess nor girl next door.
The nine-page photo essay that Shaw produced for LIFE’s December 7, 1953 issue, like the outtakes seen in this gallery, provides some hint of what made Hepburn different: rather than trailing her at parties or even in front of the camera, the photographer focused on her workaday life. She got up early for work, went to the studio, got ready to film Sabrina (referred to by the title of the play on which it’s based, Sabrina Fair, in the story), practiced ballet and got ready for another day of work. The most glamorous parts of the day, the actual filming, were elided in favor of behind-the-scenes prep. But the day was a fitting subject for a photo essay, the magazine noted, “not because there is anything so remarkable about it but because whatever Audrey does, she looks pretty remarkable doing it.”
As for the question of whether Hepburn would be more than a one-hit wonder, the years have provided an unassailable answer. In the decades that followed the release of Sabrina, Hepburn become one of the 20th century’s most iconic stars, and it was just as photographer Shaw predicted. In a note at the beginning of the issue, he commented that she was a “monster” when it came to productivity and that the studio technicians who worked with her guessed that she would have a long and illustrious career.
“We can tell,” they told Shaw, “when someone has got it.”
Original caption: “Dinner alone is usually eaten on floor where she squats easily because of lifelong ballet training. While eating she often reads classical drama, with heavy helping of Shaw and Shakespeare.”
Original caption: Being made up, Audrey has the contours of her eyes skillfully emphasized. They are naturally large, tilted at the corners, with heavy brows.”