9 Iconic Photographs From Black History

The casual student of history might not look to Frederick Douglass for wisdom on the power of photography. The abolitionist is best known for his unmatched talent for oration, and when he died in 1895, the medium was still an evolving technology. But Douglass knew that photography had a quality that couldn’t always be found in other art forms. He touched on the transformative energy of the image when he wrote in 1864 that making pictures enables us to “see what ought to be by the reflection of what is, and endeavor to remove the contradiction.”

Douglass’ words introduce a selection of some of the most iconic photographs of African American history in the book Through the African American Lens, curated by Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History and Culture. The book is the first in a series, and based on an exhibit of the same name that opened in 2015.

“The book essentially reflects the vastness and the dynamism that is the subject matter for the museum,” says Rhea Combs, Curator of Film and Photography at the museum, who led the team that distilled a collection of 15,000 images into the 60 photographs that make the book. While future books will delve into more specific themes in Black history, like the civil rights movement and Black women, the first book takes a sweeping look at more than 150 years of the vast and varied set of African American experiences in America.

Throughout history, photographs have afforded African Americans a way of “inserting themselves into a conversation,” Combs says, especially in a society “that oftentimes dismissed them or discounted them.”

The images reveal how agency can be created in the space between lens and subject. “There is a real, conscientious effort with individuals that are standing in front of the camera to present themselves in a way that shows a regality, a fortitude, a resolve,” she says. Whenever Douglass was photographed, he made sure to see the photographs before they were distributed, as he knew the importance of controlling his image. During the mid-nineteenth century, abolitionists mailed out photographs of slaves in an effort to change hearts and minds on the matter of abolition.

Many of the photographs were taken by photographers who were not African American themselves. When Wayne Miller, a white photographer, knocked on the doors of black Chicagoans in the 1940s, he earned their trust through conversation rather than setting out to conduct an anthropological study. Though this was certainly not always the case, and the relationship between subject and photographer can be quite complicated, “I think the agency was definitely in their gaze at the camera instead of the camera recording them,” says Combs.

Sixty might sound like an impossibly small number of images to capture all of African American history. But the images Combs and her team selected speak volumes. A 1938 photograph of a Harlem Elks Parade shows, rather than the parade itself, the sense of community and togetherness among its spectators. Images of exile in the form of James Baldwin and Eldridge Cleaver speak to, in Combs’ words, “freedom movements that are part of American history, but didn’t occur on American soil.”

LIFE photographer Eliot Elisofon’s photo of Zack Brown photographing two men in Harlem is a fitting choice for the book’s cover. In it, a black photographer, behind the lens, documents the dapper and dignified appearance of two black men in Harlem. The photograph is about urban life and the Great Migration, but it’s also about photography itself: that interplay between the voyeurism of viewers and the self-awareness of subjects that brings a static image to life nearly 80 years later.

Many of the photographs have this sense of immediacy, a sometimes startling relevance that belies their age. In a picture taken by Dave Mann of Emmett Till’s funeral in 1955, Till’s mother clutches a handkerchief in one hand and extends the other, searching, it seems, for balance. The track of a single tear, which appears to have fallen just before the shutter was clicked, is visible on her face.

“Especially on the heels of things that are happening now,” says Combs, “this story unfortunately how many years later feels very, very familiar.”

Liz Ronk edited this gallery. Follow her on Twitter at @LizabethRonk.

Photographer Zack Brown shooting dapper men in Harlem, ca. 1937

Photographer Zack Brown shooting dapper men in Harlem, ca. 1937

Eliot Elisofon Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, © Harry Ransom Center, The University of Texas at Austin

Elks Parade, Harlem, from Harlem Document, 1938

Elks Parade, Harlem, from Harlem Document, 1938

Jack Manning Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, © Estate of Jack Manning

African American Jewish Congregation in Harlem, children studying, 1940.

African American Jewish Congregation in Harlem, children studying, 1940.

Alexander Alland Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, © Alexander Alland Jr.

An afternoon game at Table 2, from the series The Way of Life of the Northern Negro, 1946-1948.

An afternoon game at Table 2, from the series The Way of Life of the Northern Negro, 1946-1948.

Wayne F. Miller Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, © Wayne F. Miller

Ernie Banks, Larry Doby, Matty Brescia, Jackie Robinson, Martin's Stadium, Memphis, Tennessee, 1953

Ernie Banks, Larry Doby, Matty Brescia, Jackie Robinson, Martin’s Stadium, Memphis, Tennessee, 1953

Ernest C. Withers Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, © Ernest C. Withers Trust

Althea Gibson holding a Wimbledon trophy plate, July 1957.

Althea Gibson holding a Wimbledon trophy plate, July 1957.

Michael Cole Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, © Michael Cole Cameraworks/All Rights Reserved

Douglas Burns, Charles Henry Sayles, and Alfred A. Neal sitting on a porch swing, 1958.

Douglas Burns, Charles Henry Sayles, and Alfred A. Neal sitting on a porch swing, 1958.

Rev. Henry Clay Anderson Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture

James Baldwin by his typewriter, Istanbul 1966.

James Baldwin by his typewriter, Istanbul 1966.

Sedat Pakay Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, © Sedat Pakay

A boy in front of the Loews 125th Street movie theater, 1976.

A boy in front of the Loews 125th Street movie theater, 1976.

Dawoud Bey Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, © Dawoud Bey

Animals That Were Among the First to Be Considered Endangered

In 2015 the Oregon chub was removed from the Federal List of Endangered and Threatened Animals, becoming the first fish ever to shed its endangered status. When it was placed on the list in 1993, there were fewer than 1,000 of the minnow species left. At the time of removal there were more than 140,000.

In the years since the first official list of threatened and endangered species was published in 1967, 28 species have been recovered, 10 have become (or were discovered to already be) extinct, and more than 2,000 species have joined the original 78.

Though the notion of extinction entered public awareness at the turn of the 20th century and the federal government began taking steps to protect certain species then, it wasn’t until the 1960s that environmental activism pressured the government to be more proactive in identifying and taking measures to protect threatened species. The first significant piece of legislation, the Endangered Species Protection Act, was passed in 1966, followed by an amendment in 1969 and a reworking in the 1973 Endangered Species Act.

Liz Ronk edited this gallery for LIFE.com. Follow her on Twitter at @LizabethRonk.

Henry, a 12-pound orangutan at the St. Louis zoo, wakes from a nap in his incubator.

Henry, a 12-pound orangutan at the St. Louis zoo, woke from a nap in his incubator.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Orangutan, 1964

Orangutan, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Oryx, 1964

Oryx, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

With her floppy ears cocked, the newest addition to San Diego zoo's okapi herd of five stands protectively near her mother.

Okapi, San Diego zoo, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Ocelot, 1964

Ocelot, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Hilda, the 15-year-old grande dame of Detroit's bears, cradles her latest set of twins, her fourth pair.

Hilda, the 15-year-old grande dame of the Detroit zoo’s bears, cradled her latest set of twins, her fourth pair.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Growling hungrily, polar bears at Detroit's zoo wait for their next meal while one impatient female gets up on her hind legs for a better look.

Growling hungrily, polar bears at Detroit’s zoo waited for their next meal while one impatient female rose on her hind legs for a better look.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Przewalski's wild horses, believed extinct in their habitat on the Mongolian steppes, are bred at the Catskill Game Farm, a private zoo in Catskill, N.Y. There are 120 of these horses in the U.S. and Europe, and in 20 years breeders hope to release some back into the wild.

Przewalski’s wild horses, believed extinct in their habitat on the Mongolian steppes, were being bred at the Catskill Game Farm, a private zoo in Catskill, N.Y.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Tusk to tusk, two white rhinos eye each other at the Oklahoma zoo. The largest of all rhinos, they came from Zululand in South Africa where only 300 survive. No white rhino has yet been born in the U.S. through several zoos have pairs today and hope to mate them.

Tusk to tusk, two white rhinos eyed each other at the Oklahoma zoo. The largest of all rhinos, they came from Zululand in South Africa where only 300 survived.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Whooping Crane, 1964

Whooping Crane, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

The cheetah, which is native to Africa and India, grows lethargic in captivity and does not mate. At the Oklahoma zoo the docile male (above) is being given plenty of exercise in the hopes of solving the problem. In fact the zoo believes the female (rear) may be pregnant.

Cheetahs at a zoo in Oklahoma, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Cheetahs, 1964

Cheetahs at an Oklahoma zoo, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Koala, 1964

Koala, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Two young tortoises crawl by 500-pound, century-old adult at the San Diego zoo. These huge tortoises, one of the most ancient of animals, are facing extinction in their native homes. San Diego, the zoo that has most successfully bred them, is raising 18 young ones and has 92 eggs in their incubators waiting to hatch.

Two young tortoises crawled by a 500-pound, century-old adult at the San Diego zoo.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

The only pair of captive bongos in the world butt each other at the Cleveland zoo. Though the 18-month-old male (left) is not yet fully mature, he already as a sparing interest in the female. His horns eventually will be 36 inches long. Bongos are so elusive in the deep Central African forests that no one knows how many are left.

Bongos, a kind of antelope, at a zoo in Cleveland, 1964. At the time they were the only pair in captivity.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Pygmy Hippos, 1964

Pygmy Hippos, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Zata, one of three pygmy hippos born this year at Washington's zoo, lies at ease in his daily bath. He is not yet allowed in the zoo's small pool he might b stepped on and drowned. These hippos which grow only two feet in height, come from the west coast of Africa.

Pygmy hppos at the Washington zoo, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Tapir, 1964

Tapir, 1964.

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

See Photos of Love and Courtship in 1950s Japan

Boy meets girl. Boy and girl fall in love. Boy and girl get married, buy a house and have (on average) 2.2 children. This may have been a common story for heterosexual couples in America in the 1950s, but when LIFE dispatched John Dominis to capture love and marriage in post-war Japan, he found a landscape undergoing a significant transformation.

Before the war, most marriages in Japan were arranged by the bride’s and groom’s parents. Men and women rarely spent much time together prior to the wedding, let alone took part in anything that might qualify as “dating.” But during the Allied occupation of Japan from the end of World War II until 1952 the ubiquity of the American soldier’s courtship rituals jump-started the Westernization of love and marriage in Japan.

Whether accompanied by their visiting wives, Japanese girlfriends or prostitutes known as “pan pan girls,” American soldiers modeled the behavior they knew from home: public displays of affection and leisure time spent with women at cafés, parks or the movies. And inside those movie theaters, American movies offered even more examples of Western mating rituals to a Japanese public at once hesitant and intrigued by the bold behaviors of their American counterparts.

In his photographs—which never ran in LIFE—Dominis captured a moment when the new had caught on, but the old had not yet been forgotten. The young couples he photographed in 1959 were living on the edge of modernity, but still holding onto many of the the traditions long followed by their culture.

Notes written by Dominis and someone who appears to be an assistant that accompanied the dozens of rolls of film he shot provide insight into the song and dance (sometimes literal) in which the young lovers engaged. Some met by chance, others in settings tailor-made for matchmaking.

One of these settings was the “Shibui” dance, run by a man of the same name. For $2.50, young men and women could attend a night of dinner and dancing with the express purpose of introducing eligible bachelors to single young women. Upon arrival, new members bowed to one another and offered the greeting “yoroshiku,” described as “a very loose greeting which is used to fit any situation and in this case meaning “I hope I can find a mate among you.” During dinner, partygoers were expected to “learn proper manner of eating western food.” If a young man found a young woman intriguing, he was not allowed to leave with her. Instead, he would tell Mr. Shibui, who would then arrange a date if the feelings were mutual.

One young couple, Akiksuke Tsutsui and Chiyoko Inami, met when Chiyoko, who worked at a bank in the same building as Akiksuke’s father’s clothing shop, began frequenting the shop during breaks. When Akiksuke brought Chiyoko to meet his family after several outings to the beach, cafés, beer halls and department stores his siblings welcomed her in ways that reflected the changing times. His younger brother showed off his Western knowledge by demonstrating how to swing a baseball bat and singing a rockabilly song. His sisters, meanwhile, sang Chiyoko Japanese folk songs.

Before meeting Akiksuke, Chiyoko had had five meetings with potential husbands, all arranged by her family. During these meetings, the young man and woman walked past each other in a Japanese garden, catching a quick glimpse of their potential mate, and delivering a decision to a go-between. Chiyoko had declined them all.

Dominis also photographed Takahide Inayama and Mitsuyo Ogama, two university students in their early 20s. The pair met six months prior, at Takahide’s house, when a friend of his brother’s brought her to a party there. Takahide and Mitsuyo, in a better financial position than some of the others, led Dominis to make an observation about class and marriage. “Most couples in Tokyo just can’t afford to get married until the guy is around 30 unless they both work or he has an exceptional job, or there is money in the family,” he wrote. “These kids go out with other couples and act more or less like you would expect western young lovers to act.”

While the photographs capture the increasing normalization of modern Western customs in Japan, they also exhibit the excitement and tenderness of being allowed to choose a privilege which, of course, includes the right to opt out. “Two of the couples have since broken up,” reads a note from the files, “and are being shy about letting us know whether they have taken up with new friends.”

AnRong Xu, who edited this gallery, is a contributor to LightBox. Follow him on Instagram @Anrizzy.

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A young couple on a date in a cafe in Tokyo.

John Dominis The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

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A Shibui dance function in Tokyo where young people would go to meet other young people in hopes of finding a partner.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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A Shibui dance function in Tokyo where young people would go to meet other young people in hopes of finding a partner.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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A young couple walked around in the Ginza district of Tokyo. 1959.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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Akiksuke Tsutsui, left, bid his girlfriend, Chiyoko Inami, farewell as her train departed. March 1959.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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Akiksuke Tsutsui, left, and his girlfriend Chiyoko Inami, right, walked around in the Ginza district during their lunch hour. March 1959.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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Nohito Mukai, left, and his girlfriend, Hiroko Inayaki, went roller skating on a date in Tokyo. March 1959.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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Hiroko Inayaki, left, went for a drive with her boyfriend, Nohito Mukai. March 1959.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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Takahide Inayama (Age 20), left, and his girlfriend, Mitusyo Ogama (age 20), both were university students. Here they were picking out apples on a date near their university.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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Chiyoko Inami, left, and her boyfriend, Akiksuke Tsutsui, played a game on a train headed to Kyoto to meet Tsutsui’s family. March, 1959.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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A young couple out on a date in Tokyo, 1959.

JOHN DOMINISÑTHE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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A young couple visited a bridge near the Imperial Palace, 1959.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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A young couple took a “selfie” on a self-timer on their camera.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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Chiyoko Inami, left, and her boyfriend, Akiksuke Tsutsui, right, shared an intimate moment on a date, March, 1959.

JOHN DOMINIS THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

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A young couple kissed on a date in a park in Tokyo, 1959.

JOHN DOMINISÑTHE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

See Photos of Vintage Coca-Cola Signs from New York City to Bangkok

In 1891, Asa Candler bought a company for $2,300. That price tag in today’s dollars is closer to $60,000, but still, not a bad deal for a business that would gross a profit of more than $30 billion in 2014. During the early years, Candler focused his efforts on building his brand, offering coupons for free samples and distributing tchotchkes with the company’s logo on them. The aggressive marketing paid off. By 1895, a glass of [f500link]Coca-Cola[/f500link] could be found in every state in America.

By the time Henry Luce purchased LIFE Magazine in 1936, Coca-Cola was just years away from producing its billionth gallon of its trademark soda syrup. The pages of LIFE bubble with Coke ads, the first one appearing in 1937, and many issues included multiple invitations to “add zest to the hour” and take “the pause that refreshes.”

But LIFE was not only a purchaser of Coca-Cola advertising. LIFE’s photographers were also capturing the growing ubiquity of that Spencerian Script the looping, cursive font of Coke’s logo in places as far-reaching as Bangkok and the Autobahn. During the 1930s, the company had begun to set up bottling plants in other countries. But when General Eisenhower sent an urgent cable from North Africa in 1943, requesting that Coca-Cola establish more overseas bottling plants in order to boost soldiers” morale, the wheels were set in motion for rapid international expansion. Wartime saw the addition of 64 foreign plants to the existing 44, and post-war growth continued steadily.

The photos here depict not just the way Coke began to blend into international surroundings by the late 1960s, half of the company’s profits would come from foreign outposts but also the wide array of American locales and subcultures the brand was penetrating. Led by company president Robert Woodruff, whose term began in 1923, Coca-Cola’s vigorous marketing efforts found footholds for the brand from segregated country stores to New York City’s Columbus Circle to roadside stands in Puerto Rico.

Of the dozens of slogans Coca-Cola has had over the years, the one it debuted in 1945 was certainly aligned with the global domination the company had set its sights on. “Passport to refreshment” was not just a clever pun, but a sign of things to come.

Liz Ronk, who edited this gallery, is the Photo Editor for LIFE.com. Follow her on Twitter at @LizabethRonk.

Coca Cola, 1938

Margaret Bourke-White The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

HEAT WAVE

Coca-Cola, 1944

Marie Hansen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

A Frenchman considers Coke's allure in 1950.

A Frenchman considers Coke’s allure in 1950.

Mark Kauffman The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

A Coke truck makes its rounds in 1950 France.

A Coke truck makes its rounds in 1950 France.

Mark Kauffman The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Coca-Cola is on sale at Jimmie's Trailer Camp on U.S. 1, outside Washington, D.C., in 1938.

Coca-Cola sign, 1938

Margaret Bourke-White The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

A French Coca-Cola truck pauses on its route in 1950.

Coca Cola truck, 1950

Mark Kauffman The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

A Coca-Cola road sign beckons on the Autobahn between Munich and Salzberg, Germany, 1947.

Coca Cola sign 1947, Germany

Walter Sanders The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Coca-Cola throws shoulders for a space among competing brands in 1938.

Coca Cola, 1938

Alfred Eisenstaedt The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

A Thai billboard makes a suggestion in 1950.

Coca Cola, 1950

Dmitri Kessel The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Summer Days on Cape Cod, 1946

Summer Days on Cape Cod, 1946

Cornell Capa The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

A drugstore boasts both Cokes for sale and the name of the then-first lady in Puerto Rico in 1943.

Coca Cola 1943

THOMAS D. MCAVOY

Boy selling Coca Cola from roadside stand., 1936

Boy selling Coca Cola from roadside stand., 1936

Alfred Eisenstaedt The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

‘Wow, Quel Babes!’: American Teenagers in Paris in the 1950s

LIFE proclaimed it “one of the world’s foremost colonies of displaced persons.” Its denizens, the magazine said, were a peculiar people who loved adventure, yet preferred “their own way of life.” They spoke their mother tongue among themselves, but sometimes fractured the local language with such abandon that natives risked being “startled by a bilingual ‘Wow, quel babe!'” In fact, locals thought this boisterous clan was “a little crazy,” in large part because they drank “so many Cokes.” The mad colonists were members of that most exotic of tribes: American teenagers. Numbering about 150, they had been transported to France mostly thanks to their fathers” jobs.

When LIFE dispatched Gordon Parks, a rising star among its staff photographers, to document the tribe’s rites and rituals in the early 1950s, teenagers were still a new and somewhat puzzling phenomenon. Earlier generations of human beings had not, of course, skipped the ages between 12 and 20. But few societies had recognized an intermediate step between childhood and adulthood. “Teenage” was an idea that emerged slowly in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as child labor declined, schooling lengthened and marriage came later and later. The very word entered common speech only in the 1940s. In 1952, when LIFE ran its story on the young Yanks of Paris, it was still spelling “teen-ager” with a hyphen.

Parks’ photographs captured the sports, gossiping and parties that made up a large part of the teenagers’ daily lives. Many captured them in the Paris of the American imagination on a streetcar in front of the Arc de Triomphe, at a sidewalk café on the Champs-Élysées and in the jazz club that occupied the “shadowy cellar” of the Théâtre du Vieux-Colombier.

The portraits that Parks made of the youth were miniature character studies. In all of the photographs, Parks’ presence is undetectable. It was as if his pictures made themselves. Readers could easily believe that they were privy to the teenagers’ most private moments.

LIFE’s sly, knowing text (the reporter was not named) pretended to reassure readers that Paris had not corrupted the teenagers by turning them into young Frenchmen and -women:

Neither boys nor girls think much of frogs’ legs, but they know every place in Paris that makes hamburgers and hot dogs and, while having a snack at a sidewalk café, are inclined to dream of the corner drugstore.

Among many cliques in Paris teen-age society, the best known is a group of girls, 15 to 18 years old, who named themselves the ‘Horrible Six’ when they got together early in the 1950 school term. They have a strict code of dress … Sloppy shoes are not tolerated, bobby sox are taboo. Girls must diet if dumpy, and chipped nail polish is forbidden.

By every girl’s admission, the goal is to keep the dates coming in Paris, build charm for college years in the U.S. and ultimately lead to a nice, home-grown marriage to the right man. Right now the girls don’t think that he’ll be a Frenchman.

Parks went on to become one of LIFE’s most celebrated photographers. His claim to greatness as a photographer rests on the many photo essays that he produced on the pressing issues of poverty and injustice. But Parks, like the magazine he worked for, had many sides. He loved the trappings of success the travel, the nearly unlimited expense account and the salary that catapulted him into the upper middle class. Like all of LIFE’s photographers, he could produce compelling pictures of hard news in the morning, and light-hearted frivolities in the afternoon.

The years that Parks spent in Paris were a turning point in his life. He was one of many African-Americans, from writers and musicians to cabbies and cooks, who experienced a freedom in the city that they had never found in the United States. He described this critical period in his 1990 memoir, Voices in the Mirror:

I needed Paris. It was a feast, a grand carnival of imagery, and immediately everything good there seemed to offer sublimation to those inner desires that had for so long been hampered by racism back in America. For the first time in my life I was relaxing from tension and pressure. My thoughts, continually rampaging against racial conditions, were suddenly becoming as peaceful as snowflakes. Slowly a curtain was dropping between me and those soiled years.

“I was moving through centuries of history, and not unaware of the possibility of its help in shaping my future. Being a part of it was like feeling at once young and old.”

Liz Ronk edited this photo gallery.

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

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American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

American teens in Paris 1952

American teens in Paris 1952

Gordon Parks The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

44 First Lady Fashion Looks from Eleanor Roosevelt to Michelle Obama

Michelle Obama probably has a long list of things she’d like to be remembered for like her initiatives to combat childhood obesity and promote higher education before she’s remembered for her sense of style. But with great responsibility comes great clothing, and the First Lady will certainly go down as the most fashionable woman in the White House since Jacqueline Kennedy.

Obama is known for choosing the patterned dress over the more subdued pantsuit, for baring her toned arms and perish the thought even wearing shorts. And there are some who argue that the choices she makes transcend personal expression and petty analysis and carry a certain amount of cultural significance.

“For some reason in this country there’s this false notion that style and substance have to occupy two separate worlds,” said fashion journalist Kate Betts in an interview with CNN, “and I think she’s proving that that’s wrong.”

According to Betts, author of Everyday Icon: Michelle Obama and the Power of Style, Obama’s style choices convey comfort (the occasional flats), confidence (feminine florals) and relatability (she shops at J. Crew). Her effortless looks, Betts wrote in the New York Times, make it “hard to imagine that there had ever been any dress code for her position.”

As these photos by LIFE photographers show, there hasn’t exactly been a dress code, though styles have historically erred on the conservative side (in terms of hem lines, not party lines). The first ladies’ fashions have both evolved with popular trends and helped to inspire them. Furs, seen on Eleanor Roosevelt, Bess Truman, Mamie Eisenhower and Lady Bird Johnson, have fallen out of favor in recent decades. Hats, from Truman’s rather vertical design to Kennedy’s pillbox style, are infrequently sported by recent first ladies. Leather, with the exception of Nancy Reagan, shown in 1968 before her First Lady days, has been far from a staple, whereas the simple pearl necklace continues to be a timeless, nonpartisan classic.

While Kennedy’s style was described by LIFE in 1961 as having “an almost deliberate plainness,” Obama does not shy away from a hint of flourish here and there. But she’s certainly not the first to indulge in a bit of flair. When working with a designer on her dress for the inauguration in 1953, Mamie Eisenhower had a few extra requests. “She specified pink and asked for some additional glitter.” Because even the White House no, especially the White House can use a little sparkle now and then.

Liz Ronk, who edited this gallery, is the Photo Editor for LIFE.com. Follow her on Twitter at @LizabethRonk.

Eleanor Roosevelt, 1937

Eleanor Roosevelt, 1937

Pictures Inc. The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Eleanor Roosevelt, 1937

Eleanor Roosevelt, 1937

Thomas D. McAvoy The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Eleanor Roosevelt, 1942

Eleanor Roosevelt, 1942

David E. Scherman The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Bess Truman, 1946

Bess Truman, 1946

Marie Hansen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Bess Truman, 1946.

Bess Truman, 1946

George Skadding The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Bess Truman, 1949

Bess Truman, 1949

Francis Miller The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Mamie Eisenhower, 1948

Mamie Eisenhower, 1948

Francis Miller The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Mamie Eisenhower, 1953

Mamie Eisenhower, 1953

Nina Leen The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Mamie Eisenhower, 1958

Mamie Eisenhower, 1958

Ed Clark The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Pat Nixon, Mamie Eisenhower, Lady Bird Johnson, Jackie Kennedy - 1961

Pat Nixon, Mamie Eisenhower, Lady Bird Johnson, Jackie Kennedy – 1961

George Silk The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Jackie Kennedy, 1960

Jackie Kennedy, 1960

Paul Schutzer The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Jackie Kennedy, 1962

Jackie Kennedy, 1962

Art Rickerby The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Jackie Kennedy, 1962

Jackie Kennedy, 1962

Art Rickerby The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Jackie Kennedy, 1962

Jackie Kennedy, 1962

Art Rickerby The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Lady Bird Johnson, 1961

Lady Bird Johnson, 1961

Hank Walker The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Lady Bird Johnson, 1964

Lady Bird Johnson, 1964

Stan Wayman The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Lady Bird Johnson, 1964

Lady Bird Johnson, 1964

John Dominis The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Pat Nixon, 1952

Pat Nixon, 1952

Ralph Morse The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Pat Nixon, 1958

Pat Nixon, 1958

Hank Walker The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Pat Nixon, 1968

Pat Nixon, 1968

Arthur Schatz The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Pat Nixon, 1972

Pat Nixon, 1972

John Dominis The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Betty Ford, 1973

Betty Ford, 1973

Alfred Eisenstaedt The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Rosalynn Carter, 1971

Rosalynn Carter, 1971

Stan Wayman The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Nancy Reagan, 1966

Nancy Reagan, 1966

Bill Ray The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Nancy Reagan, 1967

Nancy Reagan, 1967

Fred Lyon The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Nancy Reagan, 1968

Nancy Reagan, 1968

Arthur Schatz The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Barbara Bush, 1971

Barbara Bush, 1971

Leonard McCombe The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Barbara Bush, 1971

Barbara Bush, 1971

Leonard McCombe The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

Hillary Clinton, 1969

Hillary Clinton, 1969

Lee Balterman The LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock

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